Often mistakenly thought of as a traditionally British staple, kedgeree’s origins can be traced across the world to India, and, closer to home, to Scotland. It’s widely believed that the dish, an adaptation of an Indian rice and lentil khichuṛī, was Anglicised by British colonials returning from India in the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. Its listing in a Scottish recipe book as early as 1790 suggests that a version of the dish was also beloved by Scottish regiments, whose influence may have substituted lentils or beans with cured fish.
What’s clear is that kedgeree is a deeply adaptable dish that has managed to transcend both politics and economics. At one end of the scale, it has historically been made with leftovers, including more affordable smoked fish, thus becoming a 1930s and 1940s favourite among British workers. At the other end, a more elaborate version of kedgeree also graced Queen Victoria’s breakfast table as well as making its way to the White House during Roosevelt’s tenure.
Here at The Wolseley, we’ve been serving this dish, or a version of it, since we opened in 2003. Ours is a traditional take, including smoked haddock, topped with a poached egg. Soothing, creamy and with a hint of warmth and spice, it’s hearty enough as a breakfast option to set up diners for the day and versatile enough to be a comforting lunch or supper dish – one of the few that steadfastly graces our all-day menu.
“Kedgeree tells the story of Britain’s historical connection with India. During the British colonial period, the recipe evolved as it travelled back to Britain. Smoked haddock replaced lentils, and warming spices such as curry powder became part of the dish. By the Victorian era, kedgeree had become one of Britain’s favourite breakfast dishes. The Wolseley’s version is especially rich, creamy and comforting, making it a deeply satisfying interpretation of this classic dish.’
Alessandro Frau, Head Chef, The Wolseley
A BRIEF HISTORY
Like all the best food origin stories, kedgeree is a fusion dish, whose flavours echo the tastes and preferences of all that had a hand in its evolution. Its roots lie in some of South Asia’s very earliest recorded dishes, with its original name, khichuṛī, in fact deriving from the Sanskrit word ‘khiccā’, inferring a mix of rice and lentils. Centuries later, by the time the British had formed the East India Company, initially for trading purposes, curry powder – one of the dish’s key ingredients – was in commercial circulation. ‘Curry’ itself was a catch-all term used by the British to describe Indian cuisine, later also marketed as an all-spice and sold by Indian merchants to British traders. By Victorian times, thrifty housewives often made kedgeree from leftover ingredients, because, according to to food historian Lizzie Collingham writing in the National Geographic, curried dishes were seen as a frugal and flavourful way to inject whatever was left in the larder with a new lease of life.
These days, kedgeree remains a classic, laced with nostalgia as all comfort dishes are, and proudly displaying its diverse origins. “It perfectly reflects The Wolseley’s celebration of Britain’s culinary heritage while acknowledging the international influences that have shaped it,” says our Head Chef, Alessandro Frau. “That’s why it’s a timeless addition to our menu.”
Read the first article in our ‘Celebrating the Classics’ series, which uncovers the history of Schnitzel, here. Book your table to try our famous Kedgeree here.
