A European café classic, this breaded and pan-fried cutlet, said to have first appeared in the nineteenth century, has achieved near mythical status over the years. We look at why it’s still a beloved menu staple…
Imbued with a sense of comfort and nostalgia, the Wiener Schnitzel – one of Austria’s national dishes – is traditionally a thin, breaded pan fried veal cutlet. The secret lies in the contrast between its crisp and crunchy exterior (which should balloon or puff up around the filling) and the tenderness of the meat within. Classically served with lemon wedges and creamy potato salad – or salad leaves dressed with vinaigrette to cut through the dish’s richness, this is a restaurant staple perhaps because it retains a comforting hint of old world charm. Food fads may come and go; the world may relentlessly chop and change from a political and economic perspective, but well-known classics tend to feel both anchoring and reassuring.
“Few dishes capture the spirit of Austria more than the Wiener Schnitzel. The dish embodies the elegance of Viennese cuisine: simple ingredients prepared with precision. Its place on The Wolseley’s menu is a tribute to the great coffee houses of Vienna, where generous hospitality and refined comfort have long gone hand in hand.”
Alessandro Frau, Head Chef, The Wolseley Piccadilly
A BRIEF HISTORY
Like all fabled dishes, the origins of the classic Wiener Schnitzel are hotly contested – it’s known as a dish firmly rooted in Viennese culture, though the Italians claim that they invented the first iteration of it.
But first things first – to avoid confusion, it’s worth remembering that an old-school Wiener Schnitzel (trademarked and protected under Austrian laws) strictly refers to a breaded veal cutlet, whereas a ‘Schnitzel’ can be made using a variety of meats, including pork, chicken and beef.
The concept of pounding meat before cooking has been around since Roman times however, and certainly a precursor of the Schnitzel appears in Austrian cookery books (referring to breaded and deep fried dishes) from the early 1700s. It’s sometimes claimed that Field Marshal Joseph Radetzky von Radetz brought the recipe from Italy to Vienna in 1857 following a trip to Lombardy, though it’s more likely that there he tried a similar dish, Cotoletta alla Milanese (perhaps an evolved version of early Roman preparations), and noted its virtues. What is in little doubt is that over time, a version of the Schnitzel spread across Europe, altering subtly in accordance with cultural preferences and traditions – including for example, the Israeli variety, often made with chicken breast and prepared with oil instead of butter in accordance with kosher dining.
The classic Wiener Schnitzel has evolved over the years. Now, it’s often topped with anchovies, capers and a fried egg, known as Wiener Holstein, named for the German diplomat Friedrich von Holstein, who was apparently keen on the combination and was regularly served the dish at his favourite Berlin restaurant. The topping ingredients enhance the cutlet by adding both creaminess and acidity – we like to serve it this way at The Wolseley, too. A popular alternative also beloved by our kitchen is Chicken Schnitzel served with lingonberry compote, a combination that works well because the sweet-yet-tart flavour of the jam complements the richness of the cutlet.
Whichever way you prefer yours, you can be confident our own Schnitzel is made to a classic recipe, following our ethos that the culinary traditions of the continent continue to meet under one roof. “The dishes on our menu reflect this philosophy,” says our Head Chef, Alessandro Frau. “We’re proud to bring together beloved classics that have travelled across borders and generations.”
You can view our all-day dining menu here. Book here to enjoy our very own Schnitzel.
